Fall shaping up to be heavy metal season - East Valley Tribune: Get Out

Fall shaping up to be heavy metal season

Print
Font Size:
Default font size
Larger font size

Posted: Tuesday, February 7, 2006 10:56 am | Updated: 2:03 pm, Fri Oct 7, 2011.

NEW YORK - The first thing women might want to put on their shopping list for fall is a pair of long leather gloves. They've emerged at New York Fashion Week as a surefire trend. And they're practical, too, considering many of the coats and sweaters on the runway have only 3/4-length sleeves.

TUESDAY, Feb. 7

Bill Blass: Michael Vollbracht shed both the legend and the curse of the Bill Blass brand and finally turned out a collection Tuesday that took advantage of his strengths: timeless and classic suits, coats and eveningwear.

Since taking over design duties at the house more than two years ago, it seemed like Vollbracht, a personal friend of Blass, first tried to mimic the late designer's style. That prompted criticism that the clothes were too old and dowdy for today's woman. In a knee-jerk reaction, he then turned to girlie looks that were out of character for the label.

This go-around, though, he struck the right balance. A sheer black blouse with a bow around the neck worn with a trumpet skirt and embroidered coat could be worn by a stylish woman, no matter where she lives or how old she is.

Coats were strong, including a winter white wool coat with paisley embroidery and a green and olive coat with embroidery done in a graphic box pattern.

Casual cardigans were thrown over the shoulders of models wearing sophisticated evening looks - a black ballskirt with embroidered ivory-colored roses paired with a white tuxedo shirt was particularly nice - acknowledging the way real women dress, mixing up dressy and casual pieces.

Other noteworthy evening outfits included a brown tulle gown with a strapless draped top and full hand-woven skirt, and a backless red silk chiffon halter evening gown. Hopefully, though, when that gown turns up on a Hollywood star, it'll be without the thick black belt.

---

Monique Lhuillier: Lhuillier's days as a bridal gown designer pay off whenever she goes near lace and tulle, and the red-carpet gowns she previewed were delicate, feminine and pretty. She alternated shapes between slim seamed sheaths and tufted ballgowns.

But the starlets who wear these dresses need to ward off autumn's chill, and Lhuillier offered them fur capelets, brocade coats and, for daytime, a salt-and-pepper brocade peacoat.

Lhuillier used a beautiful peacock blue jacquard fabric for a corseted cocktail dress and matching bolero. It was a refreshing change from all the black and other dark colors that have dominated the season's palette.

The Los Angeles-based Lhuillier took her bow just weeks after having her first baby. She said the collection was strongly influenced by the furniture fabrics and wallpapers she studied when she was in her "nesting" phase.

--

Marc Jacobs: There was no marching band this time, but Marc Jacobs' show was a crowd-pleaser nonetheless with a fall collection that was more Edie Sedgwick than Grace Kelly.

The Penn State Blue Band kicked off Jacobs' show last season at the New York State Armory, but the theatrics this time were limited to the clothes.

Jacobs cleverly took some ladylike standbys of his past few seasons and turned them into tough-girl accessories. Dainty tea party gloves became leather, elbow-length gloves; mary janes got a patent-leather makeover and their heels were raised to dizzying heights.

Traditional fall colors and cozy fabrics were punctuated by shimmer and shine. Huge sequin berets and metallic leather boots added bombastic accents to slouchy pants layered with dresses, tiny tank tops and oversize, boxy coats.

Jacobs clearly had his younger fans in mind - Nicole Richie and Rachel Bilson cheered him on Monday night along with longtime muse Winona Ryder - when he designed these looks, whose mix-and-match sensibility give the wearer a chance to reveal her personality instead of her body.

---

Monique Lhuillier: Lhuillier's days as a bridal gown designer pay off whenever she goes near lace and tulle, and the red-carpet gowns she previewed Tuesday morning were delicate, feminine and pretty. She alternated shapes between slim seamed sheaths and tufted ballgowns.

But the starlets who wear these dresses need to ward off autumn's chill, and Lhuillier offered them fur capelets, brocade coats and, for the daytime, a salt-and-pepper brocade peacoat.

---

MONDAY, Feb. 6

Marc Jacobs: There was no marching band this time, but Marc Jacobs' show was a crowd-pleaser nonetheless with a fall collection that was more Edie Sedgwick than Grace Kelly.

The Penn State Blue Band kicked off Jacobs' show last season at the New York State Armory, but the theatrics this time were limited to the clothes.

Jacobs cleverly took some ladylike standbys of his past few seasons and turned them into tough-girl accessories. Dainty tea party gloves became leather, elbow-length gloves; mary janes got a patent-leather makeover and their heels were raised to dizzying heights.

Traditional fall colors and cozy fabrics were punctuated by shimmer and shine. Huge sequin berets and metallic leather boots added bombastic accents to slouchy pants layered with dresses, tiny tank tops and oversize, boxy coats.

Jacobs clearly had his younger fans in mind - like Nicole Ritchie and "The O.C.'s" Rachel Bilson, who cheered him on Monday along with longtime muse Winona Ryder - when he designed these looks, whose mix-and-match sensibility give the wearer a chance to reveal her personality instead of her body.

---

Max Azria Collection: This line, formerly known as BCBG Max Azria, is undergoing a transformation as the company tries to elevate the image of the runway clothes beyond cute, breezy dresses and flattering pants.

For the collection presented Monday evening, Azria concentrated on knits - which made great casual cashmere coats and borderline bizarre bloomers. Azria wasn't the only culprit to send bloomers down the runway. In fact, the crowd at the Bryant Park tents probably have seen more bloomers and knickers over the first four days of Fashion Week than they've seen in the last four years.

Azria also offered several pieces that had origami details, which were similar enough to hit on the big-bow trend but different enough to stand out. But there's something to be said for simplicity, and the cashmere turtleneck dresses worn with either tweed or cashmere coats were the most sophisticated outfits in the collection.

---

Betsey Johnson: The sometimes risque, but always playful Johnson was on her best behavior for fall 2006.

She offered cute cocktail dresses that surely will be on the high school dance circuit; skirt suits, with miniskirts, of course; and a taffeta trench coat that could go just about anywhere and be worn by just about any woman.

The trench coat, paired with a gold blouse with ruffles around the neck and a black flounce skirt, was one of the show's best outfits. A latte-colored crocheted dress and a boucle suit with candy-colored dots to break up the black background were also standouts.

The hot pants and bloomers that have been far too prevalent at Fashion Week were also on Johnson's runway, but since she's Betsey Johnson, they belonged.

---

Jill Stuart: Stuart dresses a young crowd, and the Goth look she offered should be right up their alley. Models wore long, black Matrixlike dresses, the best being a satin version with a V neck and high waist.

The runway wasn't all somber, though. A winter white nubby coat and a silver lame all-over pleated gown were winners. Stuart then switched modes and send out a delicate chiffon dress with flutter sleeves in an abstract blue floral print.

---

Oscar de la Renta: De la Renta's fall collection confirms some of the emerging trends for fall. His runway had metallic fabrics, three-quarter sleeve tops and jackets worn with long gloves, belted jackets, sweater coats and both skinny cigarette pants and wide-leg cuffed ones. Somehow, though, everything looks a little different when done at de la Renta's direction. They're classier and more luxurious.

The metallic brocade jacket with a high open collar, which was worn with a taupe cashmere turtleneck and gray flannel pants, would be right for work; worn with dark jeans, it's a chic weekend look. Skinny metallic brocade pants balanced the proportion of a thick cableknit sweater.

De la Renta traditionally does great coats and embroideries. He combined those skills into an outstanding brown embroidered cashmere coat with pony skin that was paired with a green leather embroidered skirt.

His other specialty is eveningwear, and while a black sheer tulle dress with embroidered polka dots was pretty, most of his gowns and cocktail dresses - with their defined waists and voluminous skirts - looked stiff, and of another time and place.

A better black-tie look was a black cashmere jacket with embroidered rosettes, a black sequined T-shirt and skinny black flannel pants.

---

Carolina Herrera: Herrera said she was inspired by the late '50s, but many of the outfits were reminiscent of the sportswear of the '70s, when American ready-to-wear first put its stamp on the world.

She sent several suits down the runway. The skirt suits, in a rust plaid, were fitted and to the knee; the pants had wide cuffed legs.

A new look for fall is fur sheared so close that it looks like soft velvet. Herrera used that technique for the sleeves on a black and brown wool dress that was otherwise simple - and very sophisticated.

Herrera matched coats with cocktail dresses to create a complete outfit, and the chocolate broadtail coat with a turquoise swirl print lining with a pleated strapless dress in the same fabric was a standout.

Shirtdresses return to the wardrobe - even as gowns. Herrera turned bright red silk into a basketweave shirtgown, jazzing it up to be black-tie worthy with a beaded belt.

---

Cynthia Steffe: Steffe featured the lightest colors seen so far, almost halfway through Fashion Week. But the delicate pink and cloud blue blouses and dresses with lace trim took a supporting role to what Steffe called "the offhand chic of the coolest girl in prep school."

The fitted black canvas and velvet cadet coat over a starched white shirt had the vintage look that Steffe's youthful customer wants, but the Bermuda shorts she paired with them - and with several other cute tops - seem unlikely to catch on.

A popcorn cableknit skirt suit in winter white had a black tie around the neck to add some schoolgirl charm, while a laser-cut, empire-waist dress was done in a sophisticated gray flannel so that an older woman could wear it, too.

Another outfit that was youthful but not girlie was an oatmeal-colored chunky knit cardigan with flecks of blue and sparkly buttons paired with pinstripe pants and an ivory chiffon top.

Some of the cocktail dresses, though, relied too heavily on lingerie touches and ended up looking like pretty nightgowns.in New York with his new Karl Lagerfeld/Lagerfeld Collection as the finale.

---

SUNDAY, Feb. 5

Diane von Furstenberg: Von Furstenberg brought back the '80s power suit, down to the slim pencil skirts with high waists, puffy sleeves and oversized lumberjack-check and houndstooth prints. But von Furstenberg modernized the look by slimming the silhouette and adding feminine details, such as a peplum on a jacket or using a rosebud-print chiffon fabric for a blouse.

The newest incarnation of her wrap dress, which she first put on the runway in 1975, had a fuller skirt and was made in brushed cotton and suede instead of the classic jersey.

A black belted shirtdress with vertical pleats was one of those chic outfits that easily go from day to night.

---

Badgley Mischka: It was a subtle shift, but to mark their return to Fashion Week after sitting out a few seasons, eveningwear designers Mark Badgley and James Mischka decided to court the funkier Grammy crowd instead of the more staid Oscar-goers.

Several styles featured accordian-style vertical pleats. The best were a bright yellow strapless cocktail dress with a bow under the bust, and a printed silk satin and chiffon gown in plum, black and white.

The duo also offered a cool daytime look - at least a daytime look for celebrities: sheared mink skirts with unsheared mink hemlines.

However, a shapeless red dress with a separate piece of fabric in the back that stretched from the neck to the mid-thigh hem looked a bit like a boat's sail - and it was a dud.

The show closed with an unexpected black satin trench coat with a skull made out of fancy beads on the back.

---

Luella Bartley: Londoner Bartley offered something for the woman who likes the look of both country crooners and punk rocker, but still dresses up in a dress with a pearl collar and bow around her waist for tea with her grandmother.

Shrunken jackets, one in textured leather with studs and another decorated with pearls, looked hip with tailored trousers or super skinny jeans. A light pink patent leather trenchcoat was a lighthearted version of a practical item.

But even the young customer who likes Bartley's playful style probably would think twice before putting on the puffy micro-miniskirts that looked like Cinderella ballgowns after the evil stepsisters took their scissors to them.

---

Tuleh: Tuleh's socialite customer will have to go even lighter on their low-fat fare to get into Bryan Bradley's new long, skinny skirts, but it's all in the name of a super-polished look.

Most of the skirts had high waists and hit below the knee, and were worn with booties with wooden, stacked heels.

Bradley also played with proportion, offering a loose satin blouson top with a high neck in the front and a big cutout in the back, and a puff-sleeve short fur jacket. A top with sleeves made of cascading feathers didn't work, though.

---

DKNY: Donna Karan's DKNY line is aimed at her younger customers and has more of New York's street style than her signature collection. But with this fall's offerings, anyone could wear the outfits.

Easy, chic dresses had loose tops and skirts with gathered high waists to show off the best parts of a woman's shape. A wine-colored mohair sweater coat was the kind of comfortable cocoon that can be worn on a Sunday stroll - and into a nice restaurant if you get hungry along the way.

There were some schoolgirl-inspired looks, too, but they had a sophisticated edge that kept them from being cartoonish. Satin mini bubble skirts, paired with georgette T-shirts and cropped cardigan sweaters, looked cute on the runway, but the tissue silk skirts that hit just below the knee would be much easier to wear.

---

Tracy Reese: Reese's signature style is "pretty" and for fall she did it again. However, she didn't go overly girlie, except for a few too many bows on dresses that didn't need them.

The collection was cohesive - but not cluttered - as Reese debuted her accessories collection.

Her wide patent leather belts with gold hardware were worn high on the waist over a black V-shaped vest and cream-colored shirt with oversized sleeves, and again with a black tribal beaded blouse and flowing skirt. Leather booties with thick heels that tied at the top looked clunky with some of the dresses, though.

For dressing up, a blue floral sequined shift glimmered like an ocean and a berry-colored long tiered dress had a tank neckline alternately decorated by ethnic brown beads and glamorous purple crystals.

---

SATURDAY, Feb. 4

Lacoste: There was nothing groundbreaking about the newest Lacoste collection, presented Saturday night, since it mostly adapted the brand's well-known preppy golf and tennis styles for back-to-school or winter sports wardrobes.

However, the rainbow of V-neck sweaters, leather hoodies and ultrasuede blousons that danced down the runway in front of a boom-box backdrop certainly was cheery and wearable - except for some sweat pant-style knickers.

Designer Christophe Lemaire was inspired by the first album from De La Soul called "3 Feet High and Rising" and he clearly was trying to bring a little hip-hop attitude to downright nerdy details, such as wire-rim glasses and too-short pants.

The show also included puffy parkas and rubber boots in bright candy colors.

---

FRIDAY, Feb. 3

Baby Phat: For Kimora Lee Simmons, fall will be a season of restraint, which for Simmons, wife of hip-hop mogul Russell Simmons, means clothes that don't get an X rating.

Among the looks she sent down the runway: a double-breasted rose tweed coat and a winter white dress with brown trim that seemed inspired by a flight attendant's uniform - down to the matching hat.

Dresses were the strongest part of her collection, including a flowing pink empire-waist gown with a red pleated satin bust and red ribbon threaded underneath.

Skirts were mostly short and some tops, including a nice cream-colored blouse with a ruffled neck, flounced sleeves and bottom, and a belt around the waist, were sheer. The model wore that top with slim leather pants.

Several outfits featured metallic tweed fabrics.

But Simmons couldn't resist a few tarty touches, such as a bodysuit worn with nothing but a fur vest and long leather driving gloves, and supershort shorts that looked like bubble bloomers paired with a draped top in shiny pink jersey.

---

Nicole Miller: Miller's mantra was stand up - and out - and be noticed. She used several stiff metallic fabrics that came away from the body. To emphasize her point, a few garments had oversized bows. Sometimes this worked, on a metal jacquard blouse, for example, but on a strapless embroidered dress, it looked more like holiday gift wrap than a party dress.

The other bold statement was her use of big, graphic Byzantine mosaic prints, mostly in an autumnal palette of brown, olive and orange with gold accents. Miller picked up on the emerging trend of skinny pants, and a pair of distressed leather ones were especially nice, though some seemed too tight for the models - not a good sign for the rest of us.

Some of her best looks were a high-neck asymmetrical coat in the Byzantine print with two jewels as fasteners, a lace-trimmed silk blouse and a stretch tissue metallic skirt, and an iridescent metallic coat that looked alternately burgundy and silver, which was worn over a blouson top in soft velvet and cigarette pants.

---

John Varvatos: Varvatos designs for tough guys. They wear military coats or distressed leather jackets, flight pants and rugby shirts. On the runway, they wear their three-button suits with combat boots.

Apparently, though, Varvatos isn't afraid to embrace a man's softer side. He borrowed a few details that have been popular with women lately, including a poncho, an asymmetrical coat and, in an item that's already becoming ubiquitous for fall, a stiff metallic scarf.

The question is: Will regular Joes wear such things? Either way, they'll surely like the brown crocodile-embossed leather commander's jacket.

---

Kenneth Cole: Cole set the stage for an office romance, dressing women in refined dresses, wool skirt suits and high-neck tie blouses and men in cashmere sweaters, sportcoats and tailored trousers in varying shades of gray and brown.

The women's clothes hugged in the right places and flowed in others to be just suggestive enough to keep them from morphing into a 1970s typing-pool look. The men showed a little flair with their chunky sweaters and thick scarves.

Standout outfits for women included a cardigan jacket with an oversized collar in dark gray cashmere worn with a merino wool pencil skirt; a lighter gray wool wrap jacket with a band around the front of the waist worn with a slim wool pant; a simple and sophisticated cocoa-colored cashmere turtleneck dress; and a caramel shearling belted coat with a high collar.

For men, a dark gray cardigan with a white-and-gray striped shirt, brown silk dot tie and moleskin flat-front pants was among the best looks. Most of Cole's pants, for both men and women, tended to have skinny legs and waistbands actually on the waist.

---

John Bartlett: Bartlett's runway show featured clothes fit for a lumberjack, longshoreman and a New England college professor.

Bartlett said he was inspired by "an untamed stretch of coastline and wilderness that lies between Provincetown and Walden Pond, Mass." That translated into lots of thin-wale corduroy jackets and pants, trousers in a subtle plaid pattern, wool henley tops, peacoats and duck boots.

A green tweed jacket with suede patches on the elbow paired with a green hoodie sweater was a fresh look, while a chocolate brown corduroy suit was an inspired version of a classic. The palette also included some nice blues, including a teal crewneck sweater worn over a shirt and tie and paired with navy wool military-inspired pants with black wool trim.

Bartlett is in his first year as creative director of luxury leather company Ghurka, and his show included some of those styles as well, including a houndstooth-and-black leather overnight bag and a leather log carrier.

---

Red Dress Collection: Top designers paired with singing stars to promote The National Heart, Lung and Blood Institute's awareness campaign about women and heart disease. The singers all wore red on the runway, but otherwise the designers offered very different styles.

Lindsay Lohan opened the show in a long-sleeve Calvin Klein gown with a V-neck and dropped waist; LeAnn Rimes wore a spaghetti-strap gown with a tightly pleated bust and high front slit by Zac Posen; and Sheryl Crow wore a scarf-style halter dress by Ralph Lauren.

Donna Karan dressed Deborah Harry in a draped dress with plunging Vs in both the front and back; Christina Milian wore a flowing gown with jeweled straps by Max Azria Atelier; and Vera Wang created a bright red satin coat with a velvet tie waistband for Thalia.

Bebe Neuwirth strode down the catwalk in a Narciso Rodriguez empire-waist dress with the designer's signature architectural lines. Kai Milla created a pleated-front, flowing gown for Eartha Kitt and Charles Nolan made a short, poncholike dress for Elaine Stritch, who is 81. Nolan probably wanted to show off Stritch's noticeably toned legs.

  • Discuss

EVT Ice Bucket Challenge

The East Valley Tribune accepts the Ice Bucket Challenge.

Facebook

GetOut on Facebook

Twitter

GetOut on Twitter

Google+

GetOut on Google+

RSS

Subscribe to GetOut via RSS

RSS Feeds

Spacer4px
Your Az Jobs